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For SEPTEMBER, 1808.




A round dress of white Imperial sarsnet, or Italian crape, with a Roman tunick of amber satin, or Chinese silk. Antique stomacher, short folded sleeve, and roset trimmings. Hair disposed in alternate bands and curls, with a long corkscrew ringlet falling from the left temple on the shoulder. Crescent comb, or oruament of fine wrought gold, placed in front of the hair. Necklace, earrings, and bracelets of amethyst, set transparent. French kid gloves above the elbow. Shoes of white satin; and India fan of carved ivory.


A Spanish habit, or Polish riding dress, with the Patriotic helmet; formed of superfine Georgian cloth, or thin kerseymere. Gold buttons, and trimmings to correspond. Small French watch, worn on the outside. Plain high cravat of French cambric; collar of the habit sitting close round the throat. Hair in irregular ringlets. Gloves and shoes of lemon coloured kid.

No. 3.-LONDON HALF DRESS. A plain Spanish robe of white or pea-green sarsnet, with short Union sleeves, and winged ruff &-la-Cleopatra, formed of rich antique point. A Grecian turban, with tiara front, edged with pearl, or coloured beads; a pendant end falling on the left shoulder, terminated with a correspondent tassel. Hair in plain bands, with a few simple curls at the car. Gold filligree earrings of the globe form. Necklace

ing the robe at the bosom. Long white kid gloves sitting close to the arm, and confined under the sleeve. Shoes of fancy kid, or Imperial silk; colour to suit the dress. White crape fan, wrought in silver hieroglyphics.


A simple round gown, with long sleeves, and frock bosom; composed of India muslin, either plain, or figured; worn often entirely without trimming, but more generally ornamented with needle-work or scolloped lace. A large fancy Gipsy hat, of French chip, or fine plaited straw, worn without any ornament. A large half square mantle, or scarf, of pea-green and white shot sarsnet, or amber muslin, thrown in graceful negligence over one shoulderbrought across the front of the bosom, and tied in a military knot and long ends on the adverse side of the waist. Gloves and shoes of pea-green, or palm coloured kid. Creen shaded parasol with white fringe.

It is necessary to observe, that with this dress it is more consistent, and decorous, to cover the bosom, either with a shirt of French net, or wrought muslin.






WE cannot recollect an era when the

and bracelets of pale carved amber. An amber general rich and splendid reign of autumu was broach in form of a heart, apparently confin- more favourably distinguished. Amidst the

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sive neatucss of their shade, and the simple elegance of their construction. But we cannot but remark that the palm-colour is appropriate only to females of the most delicate complexion.

luxuriance and beauty which pervade both the animal and vegetable part of creation, nothing can equal the animated and lively grace which beams in the smile of beauty, and decorates in a great degree, the present tasteful costume of the British female. Fair The French tippet, which had ever a flipdaughters of Albion! ever famed for personal pant (not to say vulgar effect) was seldom charms, and modest worth; ye have greatly adapted by women of reaned taste; it is now advanced in that necessary species of worldly submitting to a gradual decline. French knowledge, which teaches—that it is no devia- cloaks, of coloured, or white sarsnet, trimmed tion from duty to introduce your virtues by a with fancy floss borders, or lace, more gracebecoming exterior. But attend to the voice || fully supply their place; the ends of these that would guard you from extremes, and cloaks are not permitted to reach below the direct you in that art, which is no longer inno-knee. Large squares of leno are worn either cent, when fashion is allowed to tyrannize over as a mantle or as a drapery for the evening modesty and female delicacy. It is the dress; the distinction consists in the varied virtues which can alone súbstantiate that im- disposition of its folds. pression inspired by personal beauty and grace. This short and moral digression from our general subject of remark, will we trust, be pardoned by our fair countrywomen, when they remember that those are ever our best friends who, in kindness, warn us against a threatened, or even possible evil.

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The Queen Catherine's hood and tippet, is at once a most becoming, stylish, and simple ornament; and exceedingly appropriate to the coloured robe. It is formed of French net, with a lace collar; beading and edging to correspond finishes its terminations. When thrown over a fine head of hair, which is first confined with a simple comb, or oruament of gold, silver, or jewellery, it forms a decoration comprising much grace and elegance, and well adapted for the evening parade, or Vauxhall. Robes of coloured myslin, leno, or crape, worn over white sarsuet, were never more in vogue, and if judiciously adapted to the complexion, are certainly a most animated and attractive habit. Gipsy hats have become more general since our last communication; they are now tied across the crown (which is very low) with a coloured net handkerchief, or painted in the union border, with puflings of ribbaud to corre

towards one side, exhibiting the hair in a waved crop behind; or are otherwise worn with a small cap of French net. Caps and veils, with full rosets of ribband, demi-wreaths of flowers, or small clusters of fruit, are observed to blend with other tasteful decorations for the head, in evening parties, or at the library lounge. Silver ornaments seem to gain ground since our last observations. The most ani

The most novel article in pelisses and mantles, are now formed of coloured muslins, painted or printed in India, shawl patterns, or in fancy antique borders. Those of white muslin, or leno, with the raised peaspond. They are placed very forward, and spot, bear also a fashionable distinction, and from their neatness and convenience are worthy a place amidst their more shewy contemporaries. In the construction of these articles we discover little novelty, except that they are now formed with a high round collar, puckered very small, which are fastened at the throat with a silver filligree, or other neat brooch. The Spanish mantle, and Patriotic helmet,||mated and novel article in this line, is the full as described in our last Number, are now in high request; and ell-wide squares, and half squares, a yard and half in length, of coloured || muslin, wrought in small feathered tufts, and disposed tastefully over the plain white robe, comprise much grace and elegance. poke bonnets, formed of palm-coloured sarsuet, in alternate puckers and stripes, edged with Chinese trimming, and worn with mantles, or pelisses of the same, attract by the unobtru

rose and leaf, by way of a brooch; and the large spangled butterfly, as an ornament for the hair. The pea-green, celestial blue, and blossom-coloured patent pearl en suite, viz. as necklace, earrings, and bracelets, are conspicuSmallous amidst the most delicate and fashionable selection in trinkets. The onyx, emerald, amethyst, and sapphire, set in the antient style, are considered very elegant and brilliant


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ON my honour you are a little unconscionable, my dear Caroline, to exact from me a letter which must necessarily follow close on the heels of that packet of information so recently conveyed to you. It is happy at this moment for me that the subject on which I am destined more immediately to dwell, affords so great a variety, and that the government of fashion is founded on so weather-cock a sys-¦ tem, that while it sanctions the laws of to-day, it may without obloquy issue fresh decrees for to-morrow. And I who three days ago dwelt on the grace and elegance of Queen Catherine's hood, the Patriotic mantle, and Union helmet, may therefore be allowed to accompany this with an article of still more novel attraction in the shape of the Pilgrim's hood, cap, and cloak. Yours, Caroline, is a countenance which I must allow (from its extreme regularity of feature, and delicacy of shade) will bear to be sported with, and such must ever be a favourite with the changetul Goddess, because best calculated to recommend her various graces and modes. As we only left Brighton yesterday, and are destined to quit this abode of vacancy and duiness to-morrow evening for Worthing, you will naturally conclude that our time is pretty well occupied during our stay. You disappoint me grievously by informing me that yourself and family intend passing the autumn on the Yorkshire coast; for I had dwelt with much pleasure on the hope of your joining our coterie at Worthing. You, however, who are fond of contemplating all that is curions in nature, will be highly delighted with the situation of Knaresborough, as well as the many rural beauties, which will not fail to attract and charm, in your northern tour.

As we

shall not return to London till late in the season, I shail hope on our arrival to find you perfectly settled in Portman-square. And it is to that period I must now look forward for a revival of those social conversations which have so often afforded me pleasure; and in

which my friend so well knew how to excel. In the mean time, I trust you will endeavour to mitigate the pain of personal absence, by that less satisfactory, but not less graceful substitute supplied by your pen. Taking this for granted, I now proceed to comply with your wish by forwarding with this packet those fashionable articles of attire requested in your last. Although habits are certainly very appropriate as a travelling costume, and are at this period constructed with more than usual grace; yet have I forborn to add one of them to the list of your order. And this for what I conceive to be two very cogent reasons;The first, that be the cloth or kerseymere of ever so delicate a texture, they must still be found most incommodiously warm for summer travelling; the second, that were you to bestow so large a sum as these dresses require, you would not be able (without raising a loan, or trespassing on your next year's aliowance) to indulge in that tasteful variety of evening dress, for which you stand recorded in the anuals of fashion. In pure friendship, therefore, I here seud you what I consider to be both a salutary and becoming substitute for the above-named garb, in the form of a round gown, with long sleeves, of purple shawl-muslin. You must have it made with a long waist, and a plain round bosom; a broad sarsuet ribband laid flat at the bottom, and one of a narrower width similarly ornamenting the waist and wrists. Remark that the ribband should be one shade brighter than the robe, which is, you will observe, of a very dark purple. This same ribband must confine the bottom of the waist, and be tied in a short bow and ends in front. With it you must wear a lace, or worked shirt; and out of doors you will add a half handkerchief, with tamboured border, pianed at the centre of the back, and crossed immediately over the * bosom; a simple travelling hat of fine straw, or a white silk handkerchief, folded close round the head and a short lace veil, contined round the edge with a white figured ribband, which is tied with rather a full bow in front. The high shoe of purple morocco, bound, and trimmed with white or jonquille, is best suited to this most neat and becoming costume.

Your white leno robe will need no addition, save that of the silver clasps which I here send for the purpose of fastening it in four equal divisions down the front. If you should find occasion for a more splendid garment, your milliner has my orders to send you a Spanish robe of white net, with a border in coloured silks, of the strawberry and leaf. Your white sarsuet frock, with white bugle trimming, for

warded with my last dispatches, is now quite }}
in vogue. In the public rooms, and in select
evening parties, they are worn by the most ele-
gant women. On these occasions are also
adapted robes of the Chinese silk, of various
patterns and shades. The Eutopian brooch,
formed in an irregular clustre of party-colour-
ed gems, is an ornament of uncommon splen-
dour; but the simple beauty, and interesting
attraction of the heart's-ease brooch, in enamel,
can never be surpassed. This unobtrusive or-
nament, is secured both by its price, as well
as the chaste simplicity of its design, from
ever becoming offensively general Did not
my commission already exceed in expence the
limits of your order, I could not help adding ||
this dear little ornament to the present selec-

Do not be surprised at my sending your silk stockings with simple clocks, and plain on the instep; no foot and ankle, however beautifully turned, but is in some degree vulgarised, and enlarged in effect, by those over-wrought and superfluous decorations.

Adieu, dear Caroline! I am summoned to the toilette of my fair friend, Lady Julia, who waits my decision on the style and effect of a new head-dress. And thus having come at once to extremities, can I do better than bid you farewell!

Ever your





ALAS! may not a man sec, as in our days, the sinful costly array of cloathing; and, || namely, in too much superfluity of cloathing, such that maketh it so dear, to the harm of the people, not only the cost of embroidering, the disguised indenting, or barring, rounding, plaiting, winding, or bending, and semblable waste of cloth in vanity; but there is also the costly furrings in their gowns, so much pouncing of chissel to make holes, so much dagging of sheirs forche, with the superfluity in length of the aforesaid gowns, trailing in the dung, and the inire, on horse, and also on foot, as well of man as of woman, that all the trailing is verily as in effect wasted, consumed, and threadbare, and rotten with dung, rather than given to the poor. Upon that other side, to speak of the horrible disordinate scantiness of cloathing, has been these cutted slopes, or hanselines, that through their shortness cover not the members of man. Now, as to the outrageous array of woman, God wot, that though the visages of some of them seem full chaste and debonaire, yet notify, in her array and attire, licorousness and pride I say not, that honesty in cloathing of man or woman is uncoverable, but assert the superiority of disor dinate quantity of cloathing is reproveable.

London: Printed by and for J. BELL, Southampton-street, Strand.








2. SAMUEL and ELI; by T. S. COPLEY, Esq. R.A. (The description will be given in our next Number.)


4. An ORIGINAL SONG, set to Music for the Harp and Piano-Forte, by Dr. KITCHENER. 5. Two elegant and new PATTERNS for NEEDLE-WORK.

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Analysis of the "Dramatic Appellant," 118


Explanation of the Prints of Fashion.... 139
General Remarks on the most select
Fashions for the Season
Letter on Dress

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Historical anecdote of Alexis Petrowitz.. 121 || Supplementary Advertisements for the Month

London: Printed by and for J. BELL, Proprietor of the WEEKLY MESSENGER, Southampton-Street, Strand, October 1, 1808.

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