LA BELLE ASSEMBLEE; redundancy of ornament. The style of gowns and robes offer little novelty since our last communication except that the long waist is becoming universal. It extends behind to the commencement of the fall in the back; taking in its regular circumference a portion of the small of the waist. This we consider a most natural and becoming termination; from which (as our fair fashionables are too apt to run into extremes) we take occasion to advise them neither to advance nor recede. The high gown and long sleeve, with the lozenge, or crescent front, most properly constitutes the morning habit; net shirts with lace beading, formed in this style, are well adapted for evening dress, where either the decline of youth, or other causes, prevent the display of the throat and neck. In full dress, however, we scarcely see any covering for the bosom and shoulders, but such as is attached to the robe, or supplied by a tucker or border of lace. general, that though an enlivening and attrac- || whose tresses induce them wisely to reject& tive habit, we cannot any longer rank it amidst a fashionable selection. They are now worn by every description of females; and the tired eye turns from their oppressive glare to rest on the cool and refreshing shade of pea-green, primrose, celestial blue, silver grey, and pale lilac. In pelisses, scarfs, robes, and mantles, these colours are very distinguishable,; and they are composed of the most light and transparent textures. There is little novelty in their construction, and they are generally formed and disposed in so varied and fanciful a style as to preclude the possibility of any regular or decided delineation. The Spanish Mantle, and Patriotic Bonnet, are lately become a favourite appendage to the outdoor costume, and are at once both interesting and elegant. The former article differs little from the Spanish cloak so long in fashionable request, except that it is shorter than they are usually worn; has square ends, finished with tassels; and a deep cape formed in sharp points, or scollops. It is composed of clear muslin, or crape, and bordered with chenille. The bonnet is constructed with a round crown, somewhat like the jockey cap; but has a deep front, which is turned up so as to appear like a Spanish hat; and ornamented with the Union berder in chenille. At the dejeuné, or in public parties, they are decorated with the ostrich, or willow feather; but on less particular occasions are worn plain, or with a simple rose or cockade in front. The Patuski bonnet, and Sardinian mantle are also worthy of adoption, from their graceful construction, and adaption to the form; and the compact and ingenious composition of the honey-comb tippet, must render it a favourite summer ornament, and well worthy of a place in a sel ct wardrobe. We recommend them, however, rather to be formed of coloured crape, or muslin, thau white. The straw hat and bonnet is now entirely confined to the walking and morning dress. In carriages, and on the evening Parade, the hair with flowers, jewellery, sinall French caps and veils, small half handkerchiefs of figured net, edged with scolloped lace, placed towards one side of the head, the point fastened nearly in the front, with a brooch of silver, pearl, diamonds, &c.; the ends brought under the chin, exposing the hair on one side, in full curls, is by far the most fashionable style of decoration for the head. The Persian braid, or cable twist, with the ends curled full on the crown of the head, or on one side, fastened with a gold filligree vine-leaf, with an animat-much novelty and taste; twisted necklaces ed butterfly in the centre, is often adopted by those females, the luxuriance and beauty of No lady of fashion now appears in public without a ridicule-which contains her handkerchief, fan, card-money, and essence-bottle. They are at this season usually composed of rich figured sarsnet, plain satin or silver tissue, with correspondent strings and tassels-their colours appropriated to the robes with which they are worn. The stomacher antique, and laced cottage front; the simple wrap front bordered to suit the dress; with short sash, tied either behind or in front, are conspicuous amidst the gored and round bosoms, which are still very general. Silver Milligree ornaments have not had so great a claim to fashionable distinction, as from their novelty we might have expected. In this instance our females have evinced their judgemnt and taste. As we have before advanced, so we continue to proclaim them a most flat and insipid ornament, and only calculated from their neatness to soften the somewhat oppressive glow of the coloured robe. Crosses of diamonds, pearls, and every species of jewellery, though scarcely ever out of fashion, are now more than usually distinguishable. The Egyptian amulet is at this tinie formed in a large lozenge square, set in a rim of plain burnished gold. Coloured patent pearl of various shades is considered exceedingly elegant as a minor article in this line. Necklaces and bracelets of the new composi tion, amulet pebble, is a trinket comprising and bracelets are on the decline. In the article of gloves we have observed the pea-green and pale olive, of French kid, to We have only to add, that the short sleeve Trains of auy remarkable length are now seldom seen; but some few females have lately appeared in parties, with their robes resting about a quarter of a yard on the ground. This we hope is approaching to that graceful and distinguishing style which should mark the several degrees of personal attire. PRETEURS A LA PETITE-SEMAINE. THESE préteurs à la petite-semaine are usurers of a particular class, who are to be found hardly any where else but in Paris. These men are so couscious of the baseness of the trade they carry on, that they never appear before their customers but in disguise. The dence they may repose in their agents. The same man who generally appears richly dressed, with a gold-headed cane in his hand, a diamond ring on his finger, seldom goes out bat in an elegant carriage, and though he frequents all the places of public amusement, and visits the first circles, will, upon a certain day, put on a thread-bare coat, an old wig, old shoes, stockings that have been mended in different places, let grow his beard, and paint his hair and eye-brows. He then proceeds, thus attired, to some distant part of the town, winre he has hired a small room, which exhibits only a sorry bed, three broken chairs, a unutilated table and crucifix. There are introduced three or four score poissardes, whom he addresses in the following words : "You see, my good friends, that I am not richer than yourselves; you see the whole of my furniture; that is the bed I sleep in when I come to town; I give you money, though ou trust, and rely merely upon your principles of honesty and religion; for you know that I receive no bond, no security, so that, as you well know, I Lave no claim upon you, according to the laws of the country; but is it not right, however, that when I so generously trust you, I should have some security? Come, be security for one another, and swear upon this craciśx, the image of our divine Saviour, that you will never wrong me, but return most poor women who sell vegetables, fruit, or fish, | faithfully what I am going to lend you." In answer to this harangue, all the women lift up their hands, and swear to murder any one who would refuse punctually to discharge her debt. The crafty sycophant then takes. down all their names, and gives them a cro about the streets, or even in some markets, are lings). So that the interest of that crown at Which of the two appear the most surpris- Notwithstanding the principals have their weekly brokers, or agents, they are desirous of seeing two or three times a year a meeting of their debtors who make them so rich, and of being able to ascertain at once the dispositions of their minds, and the degree of confi as you do by me, far from it." The poor people withdraw, and the hypocrite settles with his emissaries. The next day he crosses the market-places and the streets in his carriage, but is not to be known again on account of his superb dress. When in company, this very same individual will occasionally discourse on benevolence and humanity! No one around him has an idea of his mean practices, and he bears a good name! THE USURER'S PRAYER. In one of the sermons of Robert Corson, the legate of the holy see, who preached up the crusade in France during the reign of Philip Augustus, we find the following curious passage: The ussier rises before any other person in the house; he examines whether any of his locks have been broken in the night, he double boits the doors, wakes his wife and daughter, and dresses himself.-" I am going to the church," segs he, as he puts on his clothes; if a customer should come in while I am away, run one of you immediately to fetch me, and I will retaru directly." He sets off, and begins by the way the following prayer : "Our futher-O Lord God, look graciously mpon me, and bless my coming in and my going out, that I may be the richest of all The usurer now enters the church, and kneels down in a plece exposed to the view of all. He beats his breast, heaves deep siglas, and thus continues: "Give us this day our daily tread-I should like to know where my daughter got all the money that I caught her with the other day. Perhaps she clandestinely lends money upon pledge, and says nothing to me about it. She will throw it all away on the clumsy fellow whom I lately found with her, and who was so confused when he saw me, though my daughter protested that he was come to horrow of me. And forgive us our debts as we forgive our debtors-The d-d Jews have sworn to rob us of our customers and to ruin us; they those in this world who lead upon pledge.take a lower interest than we. O gracious Which art in heaven-1 am confoundedly vexed that I was not at home when the peasant's wife came to borrow a sum of money. 1 should have done better if I had not gone to mass that day. I am always out of luck's way; and if I but set a foot in the church 1 Lose an opportunity of shearing my sheep. It is exactly as if it was contrived for the purpose. It is enough to make one wish the priests and their masses at the devil. Hallowed be thy one-Then I have an idle baggage of a daughter at home, who will ruin me. I could swear that she and her mother are both in a plot to rob me, and that they live sumptuously and enjoy themselves as soon as my back is turned; I have a great mind to run home and surprize them. Thy kingdom come-Ah! I recollect that the Chevalier who owed me fifty livres, has only paid one half of his debt. I was a cursed fool to take his word of Lonour; a good pledge is a thousand times better than all words of honour. Thy will be done-I have, to be sure, made a vow to go twice a week to mass, that the blessing of heaven may rest upon me and my little business, but I have not considered that the church is at too great a distance for a person of my age, God rewardsha'n't get mine at least." yue for my trouble!" God, consider that they crucified thee, and plunge them into the lowest abyss of hell! Yesterday when madame Hersaut brought me the pieces of gold, I forgot to weigh them; now they are mixed among the others, and I must rummage over the whole bag. So much the worse for her i'faith; if I find any light ones I will carry them to her, and resolutely maintain that they are hers. There is nothing to be got by my neighbours, for they are envious of me because they think me rich; I wish they would die, for then I might have others. Lead us not into temptation-When shall I be able to feast my eyes on a beautiful heap of gold and silver? Ah! gracious God, I promise thee not to touch it, to renounce every indulgence, to starve rather than; but did I lock my door properly? One, two, three; yes, here are the three keys! Bat deliver us from evil-Who is this Robert Corson, that runs about preaching from town to town? Is he really such a fool as to imagine that I would go a begging out of love to my neighbour? For ever and ever Amen-Our parson will begin to preach and to talk all the money out of our pockets. Your servant, Sir, yom 1 London: Printed by and for J. BELL, Southampton-street, Strand. OR, Bell's COURT AND FASHIONABLE MAGAZINE, FOR AUGUST, 1808. EMBELLISHMENTS. 1. An Elegant PORTRAIT of the Most Noble the MARCHIONESS OF TAVISTOCK. 2. NARCISSUS; by T. STOTHARD, ESQ R. A. 4. TWO SPANISH BOLEROS; or, National and Patriotic AIRS. 3. FOUR WHOLE-LENGTH FIGURES in the FASHIONS of the SEASON. London: Printed by and for J. BELL, Proprietor of the WEEKLY MESSENGER, Southampton-Street, Strand, September 1, 1808. STOTHARD'S NARCISSUS. WE present our Readers, in our present Number, with a beautiful Outline Engraving from e Picture of T. STOTHARD, Esq. R. A.; with which that celebrated Artist himself has kindly presented us, Drawn and Outlined by his own hand-This must be our apology for deferring to another month the two Plates from BARRY's Pictures, which have again been unfortunately retarded by the indisposition of the excellent Artist who has undertaken them; next month we may promise them. The description of Mr. STOTHARD's Picture will be given in our next Number. |