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Designed expressly for La Belle Assemblee N.38. Published Dec.11808. Printed for John Bell Southampton Str."

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ren by Special Permission from the original Dress & Lady of Fashion For La Belle Assemble N°33. Rub D



For DECEMBER, 180s.






Andalusian vest, or bodice of white, or coloured velvet, or of silver tissue.The bosom and sleeve ornamented in oblique stripes of silver, and finished with a correspondeut binding. Head dress of the first figure-The hair in light folds on the forehead, and waved over the crown. Necklace, two rows of Chinese pearl, earrings and bracelets to correspond. Gloves, white kid, above the elbow; and shoes of white or crimson satin, embroidered in a silver lily at the toes.

The second figure represents the back of the same costume, but the head dress is here formed of a small hood of silver net, which en

In front is a full tiara of curled feathers frosted with silver. A silver diadem, or full bunch of winter flowers.

AN antique frock, formed of white or coloured crape mustin; embroidered (for full dress) round the bottom, bosom, and sleeves, in a border of the silver ivy leaf and berry; aud worn over a white satin slip. For less splendid occasions it is ornamented with lace, let in at its several terminations. It is made-high in the neck for the last-mentioned style, with a full rucked collar; but in the former is so constructed as partially to display the back and shoulders. The Highland spenser is form-closing the hair behind, fails over the ears.—— ed of double twill sarsnet, lined throughout with bright amber; the colour, Spanish fly. It is cut low round the throat, and finished with a full irregular frill, or collar. The waist of the spenser is plain in the front, and rather extreme in length. The scarf is gathered into asilver dash on one shoulder, flowing partially over the back, and one end crossing the figure in front. The whole is trimmed with spotted ermine, or a rich silk trimming of Chiccse floss. The traveller's cap, formed of the satae material as the spenser, turned up with spotted ermine, or full puckered sarsuet the same as the lining of the scarf.-Gloves of York tan, and shoes of dark green velvet with amber coloured bows.


Petticoats with short trains of white, or coloured crape, net, or leno, worn over white satin, bordered at the feet in a raised silver

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THE empire of fashion being now established, we are enabled to present to our Correspondents a numerous list of articles approprite for the season, which have already received the stamp of approbation from many a fair votary of taste and elegance. As the rage for variety and novelty is not in the least diminished, it will require our utmost atttention and care to select for our delineation those superior articles, in each particular species of costume, which shall secu e to us that public confideace which we have hitherto so largely possessed; and we trust we shall not be found to slacken in our endeavours to render our conimunications worthy the attention of our nu

our various

merous Correspondents. la
labours we aspire not only to describe, but
also to instruct; and by this means we hope,
to aid British females in their approach to
that tasteful and correct style of costume to
which they appear rapidly advancing; for it is
not (as we have observed in a former Number
of this work) because an article is deemed fa-
shionable and novel, that it must be adopted
by females of every description, or that it can
be constantly worn on every occasion.
due distinction which marks the several orders
of society, the difference in figure, in feature,
and in the several periods of the day, must be
attended to if we would aspire to that chaste
decorum in our external decoration which is
inseparable from a good taste; and which ex-
tends from the most solid to the most trifling,

The Spanish costume which now so universally prevails, is in itself most attractive and graceful; and blended (as it now is) with the fashions of our isle, produces a most becoming and advantageous effect. But we must here! take occasion to observe, that the Spanish style is better adapted for evening or full diess. When a nation like Great Britain, which is rich in own its ingenuity, borrows the habits of another, they should be allowed to improve and diversify without encroaching too much on national taste.

The Spanish hat, of most becoming and simple construction, is appropriate only to full dress, or the carriage; for the streets it is certainly ill-adapted, being too commanding and glaring. All the distinguishing points of the Spanish costame are very striking, and possess much airiness and grace; and are consequently best calculated for that higher order of decoration which should distinguish the evening, or full dress. We are induced to offer these remarks from the present general rage for almost every species of the, Spanish habit, doubtless arising from a noble ardour in the present magnanimous cause in whch our nation is engaged; and from that natural association of feeling which descends from greater to lesser things. But while we express our admiration at a praise worthy enthusiasm, we wish not to digress from the express pur pose of these remarks, which is intended to point out to the fair individual not only what is most advantageous, but also what detracts from her personal charms. To come therefore more immediately to our purpose: We observe several elegant improvements in the mantle, cloak, and pelisse; and amidst the diversity which presents itself, we men

tion the following as the most select and elegaat. Cloaks or manties of grass-green or purple velvet, or offine Vigonia, or Merino cloth, lined throughout with sarsuet, and trimmed with spotted ermine, or other fur. The scarlet mantle is frequently ornamented with borders of black velvet in the Tuscan style, with full collars to correspond. Pelisses (which are alternately formed of velvet cloth, or susuets) admit also of much variety in their construction; some are formed plain, with high fall collars, and clasps of gold or cut steel confine them in front from the throat to the feet. Others have large fancy capes, or a sort of scapulaires trimmed with ermine, falling over the shoulders. The Opera mantle is usually worn short and cut to a point behind; if of white satin it is trimmed with gossamer fur or swansdown; if of cloth, with spotted ermine or blue fox. White tippets are not so general as last season; but they are an article so neat and appropriate, that they will never be entire ly exploded. The Russian bonnet, of cloth or velvet, ornamented with chenille, or curled floss trimming, is exceedingly unique and elegant. The Minerva helmet, formed of the Union sati, with the patriotic plume, is a most attractive and distinguishing article in this line. Velvet bonnets with full tiara fronts, with ends pendant on the left side, after the Hungarian style, blend with the straw bonnets of the simple Cottage form; the former are worn with short lace veils, and the latter trimmed with a Tibband or handkerchief appropriate to the season. No shelter for the pedestrian fair can be more consistent and becoming than this last mentioned article Spanish hats for full dress, are for ined of satiu, frosted velvet, and gold or silver tissue. Satin caps blended with lace, with full tiara fronts, formed of curled feathers, or leaves, are most becomingiy adapted for ladies of mature years. Lace caps in the Armesian and Roman style, are well suited to the morning, or half dress. Coronets, tiras, an richly oru imented combs, in gold, silver, or gems, are seen to ornament the hair in full dress; amidst this splendid species of decoration, the Spartan diadem is most novel and elegant. The bandeau is a good deal exploden, and flowers thouh still permitted to mix in the gay variety) are not certainly so well calculated for the winter as more brilliant decorations. Th. wasts of gowns continue their becoming increase of length; and our females scem uot inclined at present to depart from the graceful med um.

The bosoms of robes never comprised more variety or more taste. They are of divers

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