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Engraven for La Belle Assemblee N:37. Nov. 1.1808


For NOVEMBER, 1808.


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A round robe of shawl muslin in white or

colours. A plain French coat of Merino cloth, or shot sarsnet; the colour bright morone, or crimson shot, trimmed entirely round with chenille fur. A three-quartered Opera tippet of the same. A Village bonnet of sarsnet, or satin, formed in French flutings in front, ornamented with a full bow of appropriate ribband in the centre, and tied under the chiu with the same. Shoes of grass-green, or morone velvet; and gloves of grey Limerick.

No. 3.-FULL, OR EVENING DRESS. A Spanish robe and drapery of bright amber crape, worn over a white satin slip, trimmed round with a vandyke of lace, or frosted silver; a full Spanish sleeve, and fronts of blended materials the same as the dress. White satin girdle, with rich Minerva clasp of frosted silver, gold, or brilliants. A drawn tucker of fine French net. Hair, a waved crop. Shoes white satin; and gloves French kid.—A very young woman may appear in this attractive costume without any other ornament, but to those who are of maturer years this dress cannot be deemed consistent, or complete, without necklace, earrings, and bracelets of pearl, diamonds, or some delicate substitute.

No. XXXVII. Vob. V.



A white gossamer satin petticoat and vest, with a Turkish hanging sleeve. Robe of white, rose-coloured, or grass-green imperial net, with shirt to correspond; the robe trimmed entirely round with Chinese or roset edging in floss silk. The under-dress confined round the waist with a large cord and tassel of silk or silver, and fastened at the bosom with a brooch of diamonds or studded silver. A Roman hood formed of point lace or French net; lappets and front of rich vandyke in antique, finished with a full bow of ribband at the pole of the neck. The hair in irregular curls on the forehead. Shoes of white

Spanish; and gloves of white kid.




AUTUMN, fast verging to a close, her more sombre sister will soon commence her sterile reign. The exhilarating rays of the glowing sun are now but partially dispensed; and the cheerful blaze of the social fire-side, the brilliant assemblage which illumines the evening party and graces the board of conviviality, succeed to the pleasures of an evening ramble or morning parade. The dejeune gives place to the more splendid diner; and the charms of a sea-side stroll are now exchanged for the pleasures of the theatre, and rambles amidst the haunts of fashion and elegance.

Although it is as yet considered too early for fashion to assume a determined character, yet many seasonable changes have taken place in the several degrees of female attire, and these we shall delineate with our accustomed fidelity. Pelisses and mantles of fine Vigonia Bb

cloth (an elegant and entirely novel manufacture of Spanish wool), kerseymere, and double twilled figured sarsnet, are now introduced as appropriate and seasonable articles; and will probably blend with the velvet, which is generally distinguishable during the winter months, and whose richness, warmth, and beauty mast ever render it an article of much popular elegance. There is at present little of novelty in the construction of mantles and pelisses; we sha!! however take care to mention not only what is at this time considered most genteel and new, but shall notice also such as are likely to be in fashionable request during the winter. The style and construction not having yet become decisive, there is yet much latitude given to individual taste and the exercise of fancy; for though numberless winter articles have issued from the loom of the manufacturer, and are exhibited at the marts of elegance and taste, yet they cannot at this early period have received that entire stamp of fashionable approbation,-we shall doubtless be enabled more decidedly to pourtray them in our next Number.

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must however here remark, that much taste is required to produce that unstudied and graceful negligence which alone can render these ornaments advantageous to their wearers.

Coloured and white muslins, together with shot or figured sarsnet India shawl robes, with those of gossamer satin, now constitute the several style of gowns; but these will doubtless so soon give place in some degree to those formed of velvet, Georgian or Vigonia cloth, which latter article will most probably become a reigning favourite during the winter; in softness and warmth it resembles the texture of the Indian shawl; and its graceful pliability as it waves round the figure, must render it a most becoming and acceptable article for train robes, which are now very generally attached to the evening or full dress. Plaid scarfs fancifully disposed, or short tunicks to fit the form, and worn over white crape, feno, or muslin round gowns, have a very animated and pleasing effect, and add to the gay variety which distinguishes the evening party.

In full dress, borders of flowers in tambour, wrought in chenille, or in gold or silver, are seen to ornament the white robe. Satin jackets of the Swedish peasant form, either of white, grass-green, or crimson, aud worn with white mustin, or silver tissue petticoats, and a Spanish bat of white frosted satin with silver Trafalgar binding, is a most attractive habili ment. Loose Spanish robes are also intro

The simple wrap pelisse will, from its ease and utility, be long ere it is exploded. The cardinal, or rustic mantle, recommends itself also from its convenience and warmth, and from the graceful negligence of its folds, when wrapt round the figure. The Pilgrim's cloak and bonnet, formed of a russet brown cloth, or morone kerseymere, comprises much inge-duced in this style of costume, and are formed nuity in its construction, and is well calculated to display to advantage a tall and graceful figure; but the most novel article in this line is a plain coat of Vigonia cloth, of a pale olive or bright green. This coat is made to sit close to the form, without any seam or opening in front; it buttons on one shoulder, somewhat like the high robe morning dress; but this junction, however, is hid by a short mantle of the complete Spanish form, which flows gracefully over the back, inclining towards that shoulder where the coat is fastened, but will wrap at pleasure round the form, and thus secure the chest from cold. In carriages this mantle is sometimes wrought in a border of shaded chenille of well-contrasted lines; in general, however, it is edged with a large silk coid or chain, the same colour as the coat and amantle. As the winter advances these trimmings will doubtlss give place to that of the tore appropriate fur.

Large India shawls, or scarfs tastefully wrapt round the figure, are seen amidst the abovementioned out-door habiliments, while those of fine Spanish silk are allowed to form a most graceful appendage to the evening party. We,

of divers materials; we have seen one of bright morone muslin, with a pea spot of raised velvet the same colour, worn with an under-dress of white gossamer satin, which in appropriate taste and seasonable elegance could not be exceeded. With these dresses, as also with all deep colours, the ornaments should consist either of gold, silver, pearl, or diamonds. The winged ruff of antique lace, is often seen to give grace and dignity to the full dress, and to which it solely belongs. We have before remarked that this ornament can only be worn with advantage by females whose necks are long and shoulders finely turned; to short women it may detract from symmetry, but can never produce grace. With the morning robe the fluted frill of lace, or muslin, is exceedingly becoming; it should be worn with a bounet which sits close to the pole of the neck behind, where it is met by the edge of the lace, and being gradually sloped to a point at the centre of the throat, forms a very sensible shelter for the ears against the autumnal blasts.

The bosoms of robes now admit a great va riety in their construction; some are formed

in horizontal flutings or plaits, others with the peaked stomacher, somewhat like those of the ancients, but not of such glittering attraction. The plain round bias, or wrap front, is now more generally edged with a full chain, most curiously constructed, of the same material as the robe; but those females to whom nature has dispensed a full bust, will do well to reject this redundant ornament, and substitute a less obtruding finish, such as the simple cord, Indian ribband, Turkish chain of silver, or narrow border of tambour.

Morning dresses are very properly constructed high in the neck, with long sleeves, and military fronts, while some are ornamented with lace or needlework in the style of the habit-shirt; this latter article is still much in request, and indeed it will be difficult to change it to advantage for such females as are disposed to shade the bosom. The difference observed in the construction aird materials of these very becoming appendages, will form that distinction which adapts them to the morning and evening costume; in the latter style, however, they seldom appear but on those females who have passed their meridian. Caps variously constructed, either of lace, or muslin and needlework, with lace beading, generally form a part of the morning dress, and indeed many appear in these feminine ornaments at dinner and evening parties; but when worn on these occasions the formation must necessarily be more light and fanciful. The straw bonnet, of the close cottage or mountain form, trimmed with narrow bands and bows of bright morone, or amber coloured ribband, are adopted as an appropriate shelter for our fair pedestrians at this season; and indeed some few large Gipsy hats with flat crowns, and full edges of fancy floss, tied across with coloured handkerchiefs of silk, intermingled with the gay diversity which marks the multitude at this unsettled season. Fur caps are introduced at many of our fashionable marts, but they are certainly an article by far too early displayed and only adapted for the winter months; when they may not only be considered as appropriate and seasonable, but stylish and becoming.

vet, are selected by such females as only appear abroad in carriages, they are far too gay and attractive for such of our fair countrywomen as are denied this elegant laxmry, and who should in a metropolis like this ever hề distinguishable for the châște yet fashionable simplicity of their attire, rather than he desirous of attracting by singularity and show.

Except in full dress, gloves are left entirely to individual choice; but pale colours A French kid, we think, have lately succeeded to the York tan and Limeric of universal adoption. The most fashionable colours for the season are bright morone and amber spots, grass-green, purple, and scarlet.


London, October 1808. HERE I am, dear Maria, once more arrived in the metropolis, where I have been greete by your monstrous epistle, with its cargo of commissions and requests; and which if 1 de not at this juncture execute, verily, my friend, you must go to your Sportsman's Ball in your old Election suit, and thus encounter the jeers, sneers, and good-humoured remarks of your cotemporary Misses. Before I proceed to tell you what I have done for you, let me infornt you that we left Worthing two days since; and as in quitting that place I left all that was gay and charming, no wonder I arose on the fol lowing morning quite in the sullens. The Duke of had given me reason to expect that he would form a part of our escort to town; but that odious monopolizing Mrs. H, (who is really not thought half so handsome as she thinks herself,) came up to our supper party, and absolutely nailed him for her concert that evening, the morning of which they each knew was destined for our departure and to complete my mortification, I saw him that same morning (from my dressing-room window) walking by the side of her donkey, although our travelling equipage stood at the door of our residence; and it was scarcely til the horses were in the act of starting, that he

Mantles of kerseymere and Indian shawls, thought proper to remember the civilities he with the white Opera tippet of swansdown,|| are generally worn as shelters from the partial air of the theatres. Half-boots of kid, jean,|| or velvet are just beginning to appear, but we hope they will soon be compelled to hide themselves in obscurity. The high shoe may be admitted as equally useful, and is certainly less masculine and less offensive to the eye. Slippers of morone, grass-green, or amber vel

had received from our family, when he approached and expressed his regret at our departure, and hoped for the honour of being acknowledged by us in town. My father uttered a mumbling sort of" I shall be very happy," or some such unmeaning commonplace reply. My mother bowed with bridling dignity; and when he held out his hand to me by way of a cordial farewell, I just gave him

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