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The streets are wide, and some of the houses are large | October yet milder." (Observ. on the Top. Clim. and last 50 years, and its commercial relations, formerly confined to England and France, now extend to the chief countries of Europe, the W. Indies, and S. America. This increasing prosperity is proved by the returns of ships belonging to St. Helier's. That port, in 1817, had only 79 vessels of 8,167 tons; whilst in 1837 (after a gradual increase) it had 244 ships of 23,826 tons, exclusive of about 500 fishing smacks, chiefly used in the oyster fisheries. Indeed, so great has been the increase of business of late years, that the erection of a new and larger pier at St. Helier's is in contemplation. The trade with England is subject to certain regulations intended to prevent contraband traffic; but every article of the growth, produce, or manufacture of Jersey is admitted into the mother country on payment of the duties imposed on similar commodities grown, produced, or manufactured here. The island receives from England, its general merchant, cotton and woollen fabrics, and hosiery, hardware and cutlery, earthenware and glass, soap and candles, and about 20,000 tons of coals yearly, in exchange for which it sends apples and cider, cattle, potatoes and potato-spirit, oysters, and granite. The imports from France consist of wine and brandy (70,000 gall. of the former and 50,000 gall. of the latter), skins, fruit, and poultry, for which coals, bricks, and potatoes are sent in exchange. The island is supplied with fir and oak timber (1,400 loads of fir and 500 ditto of oak yearly) from Sweden and Norway, with hemp, linen fabrics, and tallow, from Russia, with wheat and barley (about 22.000 qrs. annually) from Prussia and Denmark, and with cheese, geneva, and tiles, from Holland; the exports to these countries chiefly consisting of coffee and sugar from Brazil, with which this island has extensive dealings, employing 20 ships of 4,000 tons, and importing thence about 600 tons of sugar, and 4,700 cwts. of coffee. The imports from Spain, Portugal, and Sicily, average yearly 70,000 gall. of wine and 100,000 gall. of brandy. The Jersey merchants also trade with Honduras for mahogany, sent chiefly to England. The manufacturing industry of the island is almost confined to ship-building, shoe-making, and hosiery. Shipbuilding is carried on to a considerable extent, in consequence of the timber imported into the island being exempted from all duty; though, if it be proper to lay a duty on the timber employed in ship-building in Britain, it is not easy to see why timber employed for the same purpose in Jersey should be exempted from the duty. Shoe-making is pretty extensively carried on, and about 13,000 pairs of boots and shoes, chiefly of French leather, are sent annually to British N. America. The hosiery business has greatly declined, owing to the use of machine-made stockings; and the persons now employed in it depend almost entirely on the demand of the island. The communication with England is kept up by means of steamers to and from Southampton four times a week, and by mail-packets twice a week to and from Weymouth. On the arrival of the steamers from Southampton, packets leave for St. Malo and Granville, returning on the alternate days. Traders are constantly sailing to and from London, Bristol, and other English ports.

and well built, many being highly ornamented with rude and grotesque sculpture. The ducal palace, containing a library and museum, with a good collection of minerals and animals, 1 Rom. Cath. and 3 Protestant churches, 3 hospitals, a lunatic asylum, and the university-house, are the chief public buildings. It is a place of considerable eminence for literature, and the seat of a university, founded in the 17th century by the sovereign princes of the Ernestine branch of the house of Saxony, in whom the patronage and appointment of the professors is still vested. The constitution is similar to that of other German universities; it has faculties of divinity, law, medicine, and philosophy, with 28 ordinary professors, composing a senatus academicus, for examining students and conferring degrees: there are also 17 extraordinary professors, and a few privat-docenten, or private tutors. The salaries of the ordinary professors range between 80%. and 1807., those of the "extraordinary" varying from 302. to 90%., which are increased by fees from pupils, each of whom pays at the rate of about 5 rix dollars, or 15s. 6d., for the course. The remuneration of the tutors depends wholly on the number of their pupils. The annual expenditure of the university, including the expense of theological and other seminaries, the library (comprising 100,000 vols.), veterinary school, collections, botanical garden, prizes, officers, &c., amounts to about 38,000 dollars, or nearly 6,000/., a year. A fund, also, similar to that in Göttingen, with a capital of 4,6007., is employed in pensioning the widows of professors; and an academical refectory fund (Speise-anstalt), supported by endowments and yearly grants from the grand dukes of Saxe-Weimar, Coburg, and Meiningen, furnishes daily meals at several ordinaries for 132 indigent students. The number of students has averaged 500 during the last 10 or 12 years; an attendance far more limited (owing in a great measure to the murder of Kotzebue, perpetrated by a student in Jena) than in the middle of the last century, when 3,000 were in actual residence at the same time. (Journ. of Educat., vols. v. and ix.) Living in Jena is considered cheaper than at almost any other university of Germany; and a student may live respectably, and enjoy for half the money the same education he could command in Scotland: but, notwithstanding this inducement, very few visit it, either from other German states or foreign countries. The industry of the town, which is consider able, comprises the manufacture of coarse linen fabrics, hats, tobacco, &c.; and three annual fairs are very numerously attended.

Jena is famous in modern history, from its vicinity having been the scene of the great battle of the 14th of October, 1806, between the grand French army under Napoleon, and the Prussians, commanded by the king and the duke of Brunswick, the latter of whom was mortally wounded in the action. The French gained a complete and decisive victory. The Prussians lost above 20,000 men, killed and taken in the course of the day, with all their cannon, baggage, &c. In fact, their army may be said to have been totally destroyed; as most of the troops who escaped from the field were soon after compelled to surrender.

JERSEY, an island of the English Channel, belonging to Great Britain, and the principal of that group known as the Channel Islands, in St. Michael's Bay, 13 m. W. the coast of France, and 85 m. S. Portland Bill, its N.W. point being in lat. 49° 16' N., long. 2° 22′ W. Shape somewhat oblong; greatest length, E. to W., 12 m.; average breadth, 5 m.; area, 39,000 acres. Pop., in 1831, 36,582. The entire N. side of the island, and portions of the N.E. and S.W. sides, are defended by bold precipitous rocks, rising to upwards of 250 ft. above the sea, and all around it are almost innumerable rocky islets, separated from the cliffs by the operation of the tides, which set with great force and rapidity round the Channel Islands. The surface has a general inclination from N. to S., on which side the coast approaches the level of the sea. There is little table land; but elevated hill ranges run southward, bounding deep and narrow vales, watered by small rivers. Jersey, geologically considered, is, like the other islands in the same group, composed of secondary rocks, resting on granitic formations. True granite is not observed, but sienite, which is largely quarried, and exported as granite, is very prevalent, passing in some parts into porphyry and greenstone: it is covered in the S. and more level tracts by schistus and clay-slate, intermingled here and there with a clay conglomerate. Iron and manganese, the only metals that occur, are not wrought. The climate, though damp, owing to frequent rains and intense sea fogs, is remarkably mild. "The island," says Dr. Hooper, "enjoys an early spring and a lengthened autumn, vegetation being usually active and forward in March, and the landscape far from naked at the end of December. Spring is marked by unsteadiness of temperature and harsh variable weather, with a prevalence of E. winds; and this disadvantage is felt particularly in May, which often fails to bring with it the expected enjoyments. March is mild, and VOL. II.

Diseases of Jersey.) The soil in the higher parts is gritty, being composed of detritus from the rocks and sea-sand, mixed with vegetable mould; but in the valleys there is a great depth of alluvial matter, washed down by violent rains from the higher lands; and these tracts, where not swampy, are extremely fertile. The S.W. corner of the island is a mere assemblage of sandy and barren hillocks. Agriculture is backward, owing partly to the minute division of property, occasioned by the law of gavelkind, and partly to the insufficiency of rural labourers. The value of land ranges between 1204. and 1607. per acre, and rents vary from 42. 10s. to 67. 158., according to the distance from St. Helier's. Farms average about 4 acres, few exceeding 10: the occupiers are, consequently, for the most part poor; and even if they were possessed of adequate capital, the limited size of the farms is an invincible obstacle to the introduction of an improved system of farming. Some tendency towards improvement has, however, recently manifested itself. The ponderous Jersey plough, known as the grande querue, though not wholly discarded, is likely soon to be supplanted by the Norfolk plough.

The rotation of crops, as applicable to the soil and climate, is pretty well understood, and absolute fallows are rarely, if ever, seen. Wheat crops, cut early in Aug., produce, according to the official returns, nearly 5 qrs. per acre, and the gross yearly produce is said to amount to 13,000 qrs. of wheat and 3,200 qrs. of barley. But the culture of neither wheat, barley, nor oats, is found to be profitable, and they are therefore chiefly imported. Potatoes are raised in large quantities, the returns sometimes exceeding 60,000 lbs. per acre; but the sea-weed used as manure gives them an unpleasant flavour. Parsnips and mangel-würzel are largely cultivated. Lucerne is highly in favour with the farmers, as it will grow on soils unfit for other purposes: four crops in a year are not unusual, and the land is afterwards fed off. A large portion of the cultivable land (one quarter, according to Quayles) is occupied by apple trees, and the exports of apples and cider have been steadily increasing for some years, the export of the latter amounting to 2,000 hhds. a year, according to the latest returns. The annual yield of apples averages 20 hhds. per acre. The pear-main is a good eating apple; but the pride of the island is the chaumentelle pear, often a pound in weight, and sold occasionally at the rate of 52. per hundred. The colmar pear is also well esteemed, and peach-apricots, melons, and strawberries are abundant, and noted for size and flavour. Timber trees grow in the hedge-rows, and unite with the fruit trees in giving to the scenery softness and richness rarely equalled. "In fact," says Mr. Inglis, "Jersey appears like an extensive pleasureground, one immense park, thickly studded with trees, beautifully undulating, and dotted with cottages." (i. p.35.) The manure universally used in dressing the land is seaweed or vraic, the gathering of which is restricted by the island legislature to two seasons, the middle of March and the end of July, times of great interest to the natives. On grass lands the vraic is used in its natural state; but for other purposes it is burnt. Cattle breeding is a favourite and highly profitable pursuit here, and in the other Channel Islands; and the treasure highest in a Jerseyman's estimation is his cow. (Quayles' Agric. Survey.)

The Jersey cow (usually called the Alderney cow in England) materially differs from that of Guernsey, which is larger, and resembles the short-horned Devonshire breed. It has a fine, curved, tapering horn, slender nose, fine skin, and deer-like form. Its purity is maintained by breeding in and in; and in order to preserve the breed intact, the legislature has prohibited the importation of other breeds under heavy penalties! Milch cows produce daily, at an average, 10.quarts of milk, and 1 lb. of butter (8 quarts of the former producing 1 lb. of the latter), the yearly produce of a cow being estimated at 102. The price of a good cow varies from 107. to 157. The butter is chiefly sent for sale to St. Helier's market, or exported to England; the quantity sent thither in 1830 amounted to 25,000 lbs. Sheep are little reared. The Jersey horse is a cross of the Cossack, procured through the residence of some Russian cavalry on the island in 1800: it is a strong hard-working animal; but no attention is paid to the improvement of the breed. The oyster fishery employs many of the natives; but lately it has been on the decline, owing to the competition of the French fishermen of Granville. The fishery is most active from Feb. to May, and the exports of oysters in 1835 amounted to 150,000 bushels. In the same year 1,470 dozen lobsters were sent to London from Jersey. The conger-eel and herring fishery, formerly highly productive, has been almost superseded by the deep-sea cod fishery, which employs nearly 80 vessels of 8,000 tons, and gives employment during the suminer to 1,300 Jerseymen. The fish are chiefly sent to Brazil, 16,000 barrels, of 128 lbs, each, being sent thither in 1835.

The trade of Jersey has increased rapidly during the
G

years, for at an average of the three years ending with 1812, they only amounted to 4,600Z, a year, whereas, in 1836, theyexceeded 14,6007., arising from licenses to tavern. keepers, market-tolls, harbour-dues, duties on wine and spirits, &c. These revenues, after the current expenses of the government and the interest on the public debt (amounting in 1840 to 61,2761.) have been paid, are applied to the public works and general improvement of the island. The expense of the militia and English troops (exceeding 20,000l. yearly) is defrayed by the British government, and the salaries of the governor and his officers are provided for from the great tithes of the 12 paríshes. French and Spanish coins were until lately current in Jersey; but in 1832 the French government called in its old silver coins, since which time English sovereigns and silver have been commonly circulated. The exchange varies from 8 to 9 per cent. in favour of England, so that an English shilling passes for 13d., and a sovereign for 11. 18. 8d. Jersey currency.

Jersey and Guernsey have long enjoyed peculiar prívileges granted by John and succeeding monarchs. No process in either of the islands, commenced before an island magistrate, can be carried out of it, and no person convicted of felony out of the said islands is to forfeit his inheritance in them, so as to deprive his heirs of their lawtul possessions. They are exempted from the jurisdiction of the British courts, except that of the admiralty, and have an immunity from all taxes except what are voted by the island legislature.

Jersey is governed by a local legislature, and a distinct judicature under the ultimate control of the sovereign in council. The legislative assembly, called the states, consists of 36 members, viz. 12 jurats elected for life by the rate-payers of the island, the 12 rectors of the 12 pars. into which Jersey is divided, and the 12 constables of pars. chosen triennially by the parishioners. It is convened by the bailiff, who always presides, either in person or by deputy; and its chief business is to raise money for the public service, and to pass laws for the government of the island; which, however, continue in force only 3 years, unless ratified by the sovereign in council. The governor, as the king's representative, has a veto on all the proceedings of the states, but never uses it, except in cases which concern "the special interest of the crown." The Jersey court of judicature, called the "royal court," is composed of the bailiff, who here represents the sovereign, and of the same 12 jurats who sit in the states. The officers are, the attorney-general, solicitor-general, high-sheriff or viscount clerk, or greffier, and 6 pleaders appointed by the bailiff, and styled avocats du barreau. This court has cognisance of all pleas, suits, and actions, whether real, personal, or criminal, arising within the island, except cases of treason and coining, which are referred to the sovereign in council. A code of laws, compiled in 1771, and sanctioned by the king, is the fundamental statute law; but it is extremely defective, and is continually changed by the enactment of new laws. The custom of gavelkind obtains, with respect to the disposal of real property: the eldest son, however, by common usage, takes half the estate, and the rest is equally divided. Personal property may be devised, but when left intestate is divided among the children, 2-3rds going to sons, and 1-3rd to daughters. Debts are recoverable by legal process in the royal court. Insolvents may be compelled to give up (renoncer) their property, for the benefit of creditors, and either the vicomte may sequestrate it, to pay demands entered against it, or the court may grant the debtor a respite of a year and a day for payment of his debts. Persons not possessing land or houses may be arrested for debt; but property is attached before the person; and landed proprietors cannot be imprisoned

The vernacular language of the island is French, which is used in the churches and courts of law the upper ranks speak it in its purity, but the lower classes speak Jersey-French, a patois compounded of old Norman French with Gallicised English. English, however, is becoming daily more prevalent, and most of the country people understand and speak it. "The Jerseymen, espe. cially the lower orders, are characterised by blunt in dependence, often amounting to brusquerie, excessive love of gain, and unceasing industry. The minute division of property prevents them from acquiring an independ ence, while at the same time the actual ownership of land till after a judgment. Debts contracted in England can protected by legal privileges, gives them a freedom of be sued for in Jersey, if not of more than 6 years' standsentiment which no tenant at will can enjoy. Their par-ing: debts contracted in Jersey are recoverable within simony, however, is not only prejudicial to themselves, 10 years.

as leading them to begrudge provender to their most va

luable cows, but is also injurious to others, whom they
overreach in bargaining." (Inglis.) Their fare is simple
and inexpensive, consisting principally of soupe-a-choux,
a compound of lard, cabbage, and potatoes: conger-eel
soup and pickled pork are rarities reserved for festive
occasions. The chaumontelle pear is commonly eaten
with tea; cider is the general substitute for beer. The
higher classes seldom give entertainments or exchange
civilities, and are much divided by party spirit. The old
parties of Magot and Charlot have given way to the liberal
Rose and the exclusive high church and state Laurel,
Literature is forgotten amid island politics; and even
the press, SO
an engine in England, has scarcely
any influence in Jersey. The English residents must be
considered as a class quite distinct from the natives, with
whom they have little intercourse; they amount to about
4,000, being chiefly half-pay officers with their families,
attracted by the cheapness of living and the mildness

of the climate.

The revenues of Jersey have greatly increased of late

The military government of the island is conducted by a lieutenant-governor, who has the custody of the fortresses, and the command of both the regular troops and militia. The chief fortresses are Fort Regent, Elizabeth Castle, and Mt. Orgeuil Castle, all on the S. coast. The island is further defended by a chain of martello towers, redoubts, and batteries, which encircle it. The militia, in which all male natives, from the age of 17 to 65, are liable to serve, comprises 6 regiments and 2,500 men, exclusive of an artillery battalion of 600 men. The regular troops in time of peace seldom exceed 300 men; but 7,000 men were quartered in the island during last war. Since the reign of James 1., the church of England has been the established religion of Jersey, which is under the ecclesiastical direction of the bishop of Winchester. Every par. has a church, and the service is usually performed in French, except at St. Helier's, where English is the language of the congre gation. The Independents, Wesleyans, and Baptists have chapels in which service is conducted both in French and English; and there are two places of wor

JERSEY (NEW).

ship for Rom. Catholics. Two free grammar-schools were established in Jersey in the 15th century; but the endowments are small. Two public schools on the national system were established by subscription some years since, and are now in successful operation.

The remains of Roman fortifications and the discovery of coins belonging to the emperors, prove Jersey to have been a military station, and under the Franks it formed a part of the region called Neustria. The Normans invaded the Channel Islands in the 9th century; and when the duchy of Normandy was annexed to the crown of England at the Conquest, they came under the British dominion. The French have repeatedly tried to wrest from us these islands, which, by their proximity to the coast of France, seem to be their natural property; but they have uniformly failed. The last attempt was made in 1781 by a detachment of 700 soldiers, under the Baron de Rullecourt, who surprised and captured the garrison, but were finally compelled to escape to their vessels after a desperate encounter with the native militia under Major Pierson, in the streets of St. Helier's. (Cæsarea; Inglis's Channel Islands, vol. i. passim; Quayle's Agricultural Survey of Jersey; Geol. Transl. vol. 1.)

JERSEY (NEW), one of the U. S. of America, in the N.E. part of the Union, between lat. 38° 54' and 41° 20 N., and long. 74° and 75° 20′ W.; having N. and N.E. New York; W. Pennsylvania; S.W. and S. Delaware Bay; and E. the Atlantic. Length, N. to S., 170 m.; average breadth about 40 m. area, 6,900 sq. m. Pop. (1830), 320,823, of whom 2,254 were slaves. A great part of the E. shore is skirted by a chain of low islands, similar to those on the coasts of the more southerly maritime states, but with more numerous, larger, and deeper inlets between them. Great Egg Harbour, Little Egg Harbour, Barnegat, Tomsbay, Shark Inlet, and the united bays of Neversink and Shrewsbury, afford shelter to vessels of considerable burden. The S. half of the state is low, level, sandy, and in many parts barren; but N. of an imaginary line drawn between the mouth of the Shrewsbury river and Bordentown, about lat. 40° 10°, the surface is overspread with several hill-ranges, abounding with rich scenery; and the coast is skirted by the Neversink hills, the only heights of any consequence in the Union near the ocean. A mountain region rising abruptly from the hilly country, occupies the N. part of the state, which at its N. extremity comprises a portion of the Alleghany chain. The Hudson forms the N.E. boundary for about 35 m. The river next in importance is the Delaware, which divides this state from Pennsylvania. The other chief rivers are, the Raritan, which rises in the hilly country, within 5 m. of the Delaware, and falls into Amboy Bay, after a course of 70 m., 16 of which are navigable; and the Passaic and Hackinsach, which fall into the small bay of Newark.

The difference of the climate of the N. and S. parts of the state is very striking. The plain country of the S. is warmer than might have been expected from its lat., the temperature approximating to that of E. Virginia, and admitting of the culture of cotton; while the winter in the N. assimilates in severity to that of the N. states. In the upper part of the state, and along the banks of the rivers, there is some good land; but the surface is in general either sandy or marshy, and it is chiefly by the unremitting industry of its inhabs., who till lately have been principally engaged in agri. culture, that New Jersey has been rendered so productive as it is. Wheat, rye, barley, oats, maize, buckwheat, potatoes, &c. are cultivated; and in the higher parts of the state large herds of black cattle and sheep are reared. In 1836, the stock of sheep was 250,000, producing 812,500 lbs. of wool, worth 410,000 dollars. Large quantities of butter and cheese of superior quality are made. The only wild quadrupeds now met with are the racoon and fox; the fisheries

are productive, and employ many of the inhabit ants. Iron in the mountains, and bog iron ore in the marshes, form the most important mineral products; but there is abundance of marble, limestone, peat, clay, sand of fine quality, copper, zinc, &c. The principal articles brought to market are cattle, fruit, iron, flax seed, butter, cheese, cider, hams, &c. New York and Philadelphia are the chief outlets for the surplus produce, New Jersey being very advantageously situated between those cities. The exports elsewhere are triffing. Manufactures are already extensive, and increasing; the principal are those of iron. It is estimated, in a work published in 1840, that 1,200 tons of bar-iron, 1,200 tons of pig-iron, and 80 tons of nails, besides large quantities of hollow ware, sheet-iron, and nail-rods, are annually made.

Paterson is one of the principal manufacturing towns in the U. States, and is well supplied with water-power by the Passaic. Its principal products are cotton, linen, and woollen goods; paper, buttons, &c. Manufactories of glass, leather, shoes, carriages, gunpowder, &c. are established in different places.

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In 1836, there were 51 cotton-mills in the state, producing annually about 5,133,700 yards of cotton cloth. The internal communications are generally good; the Morris Canal, 101 m. in length, by 30 to 32 ft. wide, and 4 ft. deep, extends across the state, from Jersey city, on the Hudson, to Delaware river. The Delaware and Raritan Canal, 42 m. long., from Bordentown to New Brunswick, is 7 ft. deep, and 75 ft. wide at its surface, and therefore adapted to vessels of considerable burden. It is connected with the Chesapeake, Delaware, and Dismal Swamp canals, and effects a continuous water communication between New York city and Albemarle Sound. Another canal, 4 m. long, connects Salem Creek with the Delaware river; and several others have been projected. Three railroads were completed in 1837, the principal of which, from Camden to Amboy, a distance of 61 m., in the N. part of the state, was finished in 1832. The second, 164 m. in length, from Paterson to Jersey city, was finished in 1834; and the third, from New Brunswick, through Newark, to the Hudson river, in 1836.

This state is divided into 14 counties: Trenton, on the Delaware, is the capital and seat of government. It probably owes this rank to its central position only, since it has not above half the pop. or wealth of New Brunswick or Newark. Elizabeth, Burlington, Somerville, and Paterson, are the remaining chief towns.

The constitution framed in 1776 has continued, with little variation, to the present day. The government is vested in a legislative council of 14 mems., and a general assembly of 50 mems., all of whom are annually elected by the free white male citizens, who have resided in the state for the preceding year, and who pay taxes. The governor is also chosen annually by the joint vote of the council and assembly. The governor and council form a court of appeal and pardon. The salary of the former is 2,000 dollars, with fees. The rest of the judicial authority is vested in a supreme court, a court of chancery held at Trenton, circuit courts, and courts of oyer and terminer, held in most of the cos. four times a year; and inferior courts of common pleas, which, with courts of quarter sessions of the peace, are held in the different cos. by judges chosen by the legislature, and receiving no salary. The state penitentiary at Lamberton had, in 1838, 163 prisoners. In 1837, the state had 33 banks, with a united capital of 10,875,000 dollars. The school fund, established in 1816, had in 1838 a capital of 280,437 dollars. The college of New Jersey, established at Elizabeth Town, in 1746, has been removed to Princeton, where it occupies a spacious edifice. It has a museum and philosophical apparatus, 2 libraries, with 11,000 vols., and, in 1838, had 240 students: in 1839, 39 periodical publications were issued in the state. A great part of the pop. are Quakers.

The earliest settlement of New Jersey was made by the Dutch, in 1612. Many Swedes and Danes afterwards settled in it, but the Dutch continued to possess it until finally expelled by the English, in 1664. In 1682, it came under the jurisdiction of Penn and his associates. It took an active part in the revolutionary war, and suffered proportionally. N New Jersey sends 6 mems. to congress. (Darby's View, &c.; Mitchell's U. S.; American Encyclopedia American Alm. 1834 to 1840.)

JERUSALEM (Heb. Kadushah; Gr. Καδύτις by Herodotus, and Ἱεροσόλυμα by Strabo and later writers; mod. Arab. El-Koddes), a famous city of Palestine, interesting from its high antiquity, but far more from its intimate connection with the history of the Jews, and the eventful life of the great Founder of Christianity; 128 m. S. S. W. Damascus, 33 m. E. Jaffa, and 76 m.

S. by E. Acre;

lat. 31° 46′ 34′′ N., long. 35° 31′ 34" E. Pop., according to the official report of Mr. Consul Moore, 10,000, of whom about two thirds are Mohammedans. The pop. has been estimated by some travellers at 20,000; but it has not had so many inhab. for some years, except at Easter, when the Moslem and Christian pilgrims swell the pop. to nearly a half more than its ordinary amount. The city stands on a hill, between two small valleys, in one of which, on the W., the brook Gihon runs with a S.E. course, to join the brook Kedron, in the narrow valley of Jehoshaphat, E. of Jerusalem. The first view of the city from the W. is thus described by Robinson: - "As we approach Jerusalem, the road becomes more and more rugged, and all appearance of vegetation ceases: the rocks are scantily covered with soil, the

verdure is burnt up, and there is an entire ab- | stands was once crowned with the House of the sence of animal life. A line of embattled walls, Lord, built by Solomon, at a cost and with a

above which rose a few cupolas and minarets, suddenly presented itself to my view. I was disappointed in its general appearance; but this feeling originated not so much from the aspect of the town as from the singularity of its position, surrounded by mountains, without any cultivated land to be seen, and not on any high road." (Pal. and Syr. i. p. 36.) The opposite view, however, from the Mount of Olives, is much more attractive, for it commands the whole of the city, and nearly every particular building, including the church of the Holy Sepulchre, the Armenian convent, the mosque of Omar, St. Stephen's gate, the round-topped houses, and the barren vacancies within its circ. (Henniker's Trav. p. 174.) The modern city, built about 300 years ago, is entirely surrounded by walls, barely 2 m. in circ., flanked here and there with square towers. The four principal gates are those of Damascus and Jaffa on the W., that of Zion on the S., and St. Stephen's on the E. The interior is divided by 2 valleys, intersecting each other at right angles into 4 hills, on which history, sacred and profane, has stamped the imperishable names of Zion, Acra, Bezetha, and Moriah. Zion is now the Armenian and Jewish quarter; Acra is better known as the lower city and Christian quarter; while the mosque of Omar, with its sacred inclosure (called by the Turks el Haram Schereef), occupies the hill of Moriah. The streets are narrow, like those of all Syrian towns; the houses, except those belonging to the Turks, shabby, and the shops poorly supplied. Dr. E. Robinson, of the U. States, however, remarks, " that he was agreeably disappointed, and found the houses better built, and the streets cleaner, than those of Alexandria, Smyrna, or Constantinople. (Geog. Journ. ix. p. 299.) The public buildings are not numerous, and excepting those consecrated to religious worship, there are none worthy of notice. The baths also and bazaars are mostly inferior to similar establishments in other parts of the E.

The boundaries of the old city, said by Pliny to be longe clarissima urbium Orientis non Judæa modo (Hist. Nat. lib. v. § 13.), are so imperfectly marked, that no fact can be deduced respecting them from the elaborate researches of D'Anville, Clarke, Niebuhr, and others, save only that they varied at different periods; and that, when most extensive, at the æra of its destruction, its treble row of walls embraced a circuit of 33 stadia, including Mount Moriah, Mount Zion, Acra, Bezetha, &c. (Relandi Palestina, p. 835.) But the walls having been wholly destroyed, it is impossible to trace their exact situation. * It is impossible also to describe in detail the many spots within the modern city which blind su

magnificence of which we can form no adequate idea (1 Kings, caps. vi.and vii.). This great glory Judea, after standing for above 400 years, was first rifled, and soon after destroyed by Nebuchadnezzar, king of Babylon. A second temple, built on the site of the first, by the Jews, after their return from the Babylonish captivity, was so much enlarged and improved by Herod the Great, as to be little inferior to that of Solomon. Tacitus calls it, immensæ opulentiæ templum; and he truly adds, nulla intus Deum effigie, vacuam sedem, et inania arcana. (Hist. lib. v. § 8, 9.) Notwithstanding the efforts of Titus for its preservation, this structure, the palladium of the Jewish nation, was totally destroyed during the siege of Jerusalem, A. D. 70. The mosque of Omar, which occupies this sacred site, stands on an elevated four-sided plateau, about 1,500 ft. long, and 1,000 ft. broad, supported on all sides by massive walls, built up from the lower ground. The lowest portion of these walls is supposed by Dr. Robinson to belong to the ancient temple, and to be referable to the time of Herod at least, if not of Nehemiah and Solomon. The mosque, el Sakhara, the erection of which was begun by the caliph Omar, in 637, is of an octagonal shape, surmounted by a lead-covered dome, above which is a glittering crescent. It has four entrances, one of which, towards the N., is adorned by a fine portico, supported by eight Corinthian pillars of marble. Its 48 windows are of stained glass, and the walls are faced below with blue and white marble, and above with glazed tiles of various colours, forming a beautiful mosaic of texts from the Koran. It is altogether a fine specimen of light and elegant Oriental architecture; and the building contrasts singularly with the severity of the surrounding scenery. The interior is not allowed to be entered except by the followers of the prophet; and Dr. Richardson, an English physician, is one of only four Christians who have been admitted within its walls. (See Robinson's Pal., vol. i. Append. p. 290.) "The arrangements," he remarks, "are so managed as to keep up the external octagonal shape. The inside of the wall is white, and without ornament; and the floor is of grey marble. A little within the W. door, is a flat polished slab of green marble. forming part of the floor, and regarded with peculiar respect by the Mohammedans; a little beyond is a series of 24 blue marble pillars supporting the roof, and inside these are 4 large square columns, forming the support of the dome, which rises about 100 ft. above the floor. The central part is railed round, a single door admitting the devotee to the sacred stone, called the Hadjr el Sakhara, on which is shown the print of Mahomet's foot when he was trans

perstition or minute criticism has fixed on as lated to heaven. The whole interior is ex. the scenes of events connected with the his-tremely beautiful, and the effect is much heighttory of the patriarchs, and the sufferings of ened by the blending of colours in the pillars Christ; but some places are ascertained beyond that run round the mosque." (Richardson's Traa doubt, which all travellers visit with interest, vels in the Med., &c., vol. ii. p. 366.) Within the and which command universal respect. There same enclosure, near its S. wall, is another can, for example, be no question, that the mount (Moriah) on which the mosque of Omar now

mosque, of square shape, called El-Aksa. The cupola is spherical, and ornamented with arabesque paintings and gildings of great beauty. *Josephus most distinctly says that the Romans left only the W. and that the remainder was rased to the ground. Τὸν δ'άλλον fountain for ablutions. On the opposite side of ἅπαντα τῆς πόλεως περίβολον οὕτως ἐξωμαλίσαν οἱ κατα- the city, in the Latin quarter, called Herat el σκάπτοντις, ὡς μηδὲ πώποτ' οἰκηθῆναι πίστιν ἄν ἔτι παρασχείν Nassara, is the church of the Holy Sepulchre, a building in the Byzantine style, erected by Helena, mother of Constantine the Great, in the centre of a court or enclosure, filled at pilgrim

wall standing, with the towers Phaselus, Hippicus, and Mariamne, Between the mosques is a handsome marble

τοῖς προσελθοῦσι. (Jud. Bel. lib. vii. c. 1.) This assurance of an eye-witness, and the knowledge that two subsequent and very de. structive sieges left scarcely any remains even of a more recent city,

suffice to show how little credit is due to any of these antiquarian speculations, however ingenious.

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time with pedlars of every description, especially gardens enclosed within a strong wall. The

venders of relics and rosaries. The building resembles Rom. Catholic churches in general, but is greatly inferior, notwithstanding its valuable marbles, to many of the sacred edifices in Rome. Immediately in front of the entrance, which is guarded by Moslem soldiers (who receive a tax from all the pilgrims), is a slightly elevated marble slab, called the "stone of unction," on which, according to the monks, our Lord's body was laid, to be anointed by Joseph of Arimathea; and near it are 17 steps, conducting to the supposed Mount Calvary, now a handsome dome-covered apartment several ft. above the floor of the church, floored and lined with the richest Italian marbles: in the crypt beneath is a circular silver plate with an aperture in the centre, through which the arm reaches the identical hole in which the cross was fixed! The great object of interest, however, is the Holy Sepulchre itself, an oblong structure 15 ft. long by 10 ft. in breadth, roofed in with a handsome ceiling corresponding to the richness of the silver, gold, and marble decorating its interior: it stands directly under the great dome of the church, and is divided into two chambers, the first containing the stone on which the angel sat when he addressed the affrighted women, "Why seek ye the living among the dead? he is not here, but is risen," and the other being the sepulchre to which he pointed, saying, "Behold the place where they laid him." The inner compartment, lined with verd antique, is only large enough to allow four persons to stand by the side of a plain white marble sarcophagus of the ordinary dimensions, over which hang 7 large and 44 smaller lamps, always kept burning. Around the large circular hall, which is surrounded by a gallery supported on pillars, and roofed by a vast dome, are oratories for the Syrians, Copts, Maronites, and other sects who have not, like the Greeks, Armenians, and Roman Catholics, chapels in the body of the church. The Greek chapel at the E. end of the hall is parted off by a curtain, and is incomparably the most elegant and highly decorated: the Latin chapel closely resembles those seen in Italy, and has a gallery with a fine organ: that belonging to the Armenians is in the gallery. Various parts of the church are pointed out by monks and pilgrims, as the scenes of certain events connected with the last sufferings of Christ; and to such an extent is superstition carried, that a stone is exhibited and gravely declared to be that on which our Saviour was placed, when put in the stocks! The faith, indeed, of intelligent men is most severely tested during a visit to this church: there cannot, however, be a doubt that it stands on the hill of Calvary, and it probably includes the site of the crucifixion; but there seems to be little ground for the assumption, that the tomb and site of the cross were so near to each other as to be inclosed by the same building. In an antichamber near the entry are several relics, the most authentic probably of which are the sword and spurs of Godfrey of Bouillon. The tombs of Godfrey and his brother Baldwin were destroyed during a fire which took place in 1808, and have not been restored, owing to the ill-will felt by the Greek Christians towards the Romish church, to which these monarchs belonged. Westward of the church just described in the Harát-elNassara, or Christians' Street, is the Franciscan convent of St. Salvador, called by way of distinction Il Convento della Terra Santa, a large stone building, having several courts and

funds are supplied by contributions sent from Rome and other Catholic countries, and the inmates comprise from 60 to 80 monks, chiefly Italian and Spanish, by whom European strangers visiting the Holy City are hospitably entertained. The church attached to the convent is gaudily furnished with candlesticks, images, &c., and has a good organ. E. of the above stands the Greek monastery, a well supported establishment with a small subterranean church. The city castle, close to the gate of Jaffa, is supposed to have been built on the ruins of the Turris Psephina of old Jerusalem: it comprises a few towers connected by curtains, and has a few old guns mounted on broken carriages. Close by it, on the ascent to the hill of Zion, is the Armenian convent, in the best-looking district of the city, comprising within its precincts rooms sufficient to accommodate a thousand pilgrims, and a large garden: the conventual church is spacious, and most elaborately ornamented; the floor is paved in the most delicate mosaic. E. of the convent is a small Armenian chapel, marking the site of the house of Annas, the high-priest; and just outside the gate of Zion is another chapel, supposed to occupy the site of the house of Caiaphas: these positions seem to be far from improbable. (Compare Joseph. Antiq. lib. xviii. c. 3. with St. John xviii. 24.) Not a vestige remains of the ancient buildings on Mount Zion, where David built a palace, his own residence, and that of his successors, whence it was emphatically called the "City of David." Its limits are, however, well defined by the aqueduct which conveyed water from Jerusalem to Bethlehem. The hill-side is now used as a Christian burialground. N. of the city, in the district called Acra, are the ruins of Herod's palace, and about 300 yards to the S. E., near the reputed pool of Bethesda, is the residence of the mutzellim, or Turkish governor, supposed, though with little show of reason, to occupy the site of the prætorium of Pontius Pilate. It is a large straggling building, having a flat roof, which commands a complete view of the mosque of Omar: it stands in the principal street of the modern city, called by the Turks Harât-el-Allam, and by the Christians Via Dolorosa, the monks having fixed on it as the line of route along which our Saviour was led from the hall of judgment to Calvary. The Jewish quarter (Haratel-Yahoud) occupies the hollow between the hills of Zion and Moriah: it contains 7 mean and small synagogues; and the numerous private dwellings, how comfortable soever inside, have uniformly mean and ill-built exteriors, owing, it is said, to the fear of exciting among the Mohammedans any suspicion of the wealth of the despised nation. The poorer Jews are supported by charitable contributions obtained from their fellow-countrymen in Europe, especially in Germany and Spain. (Turner, ii. 264.) The Turks reside on the E. side of the city all round the great inclosure of Mount Moriah. The suburbs of Jerusalem abound with interesting remains of less questionable antiquity and authenticity than most of those within the modern walls. Close to the gate of Jaffa is the pool of Gihon, near which, in a village of the same name, "Zadok the priest, and Nathan the prophet, anointed Solomon king over Israel" (1 Kings, i. 34.), and, at a later period, Hezekiah "stopped the upper watercourse of Gihon, and brought it straight down to the W. side of the city of David." (2 Chron. xxxii. 30.) S. of Mount Zion is the valley of Hinnom, in which are nuinerous tombs hollowed out of the

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