The autobiography of Polinario would be a delightful and a most curious book; the sketches with which he favoured me would easily expand into several chapters of these rambles; but to lose sight of Don Quixote for so long a time, would be a liberty which even Cervantes has not suffered himself to take. It is, indeed, one of the peculiar excellences of the work, that the interest of the reader shall never be too long estranged from the hero and his eccentricities. Numerous examples of this might be given; but to mention only one, a story is told in the kitchen of a Posada, and the listeners became interested in it; and Cervantes suspecting this, and resolved never to keep his hero too long in the back-ground, suddenly interrupts the story by extraordinary and unheard-of sounds, which are occasioned by Don Quixote getting up in his sleep and attacking a number of wine-skins, and by this means the attention of the reader is recalled to the main purport of the work.

My associations with the inn, which Don Quixote mistook for a castle, were not likely to be disturbed by the night accommodation which it afforded. "I verily believe," said the barber, when the Asturian maid lighted us to the sleeping room, and hung the little lamp upon the cross-beam in the passage," that your mercy is about to sleep in the identical bed that received the Knight of La Mancha;" and so indeed the barber might well say, for it was literally "four rough boards, supported on two benches of unequal height, covered by a mattrass so thin that it might have passed for a quilt, and full of knots, so hard that they might well have been mistaken for pebble stones." The barber turned up the mattrass, and examined the boards, remarking that they appeared some hundreds of years old; and so wistfully did he eye the bed, that seemed scarcely to have been made since Don Quixote lay in it, that I offered to resign it for his, which was spread upon the floor, and was composed of the furniture of the two mules; and I had little reason to repent of the change. No amorous Maritornes disturbed our nightly slumbers; no jealous carrier bathed our jaws in blood; nor did any "trooper of the holy brotherhood, or enchanted Moor," discharge a lamp full of oil upon the "pate" either of the barber or myself.

It was yet but the first blush of day that overspread the East, when, mounting our mules in the yard of the inn, we returned the parting salutation of the landlord, answered the smile of the Asturian damsel, and, pricking our beasts, trotted out at the gate into the high road. "It was in this day's journey," said the barber, after we had proceeded a few hundred yards side by side, "that the Knight of La Mancha found his heart's content of adventures, you see these hillocks, and the meadows that lie between them; here it was that he made havoc with the flocks of sheep; a little farther on, the adventure of the corpse took place, then followed the unheard-of adventure of the fulling hammers; the acquisition of Mambrino's helmet succeeds next,—and, lastly, the adventure of the galley-slaves."

"And are all these adventures connected with any particular spot?" I enquired.

"No," replied the barber; "the high-road was the theatre of the mall; but, excepting the last, which took place near the Sierra Morena, of which the "Brown Mountain" is a part, they cannot be referred to any precise spot. ""Tis unfortunate," said I.

""Tis unfortunate," said the barber.

"I should have liked of all things," said I, "to have seen the spot where Don Quixote first clapped Mambrino's helmet upon his head."

"Now, to my mind," said the barber, checking his mule; "the adventure of Mambrino's helmet might have been omitted without great loss to the book, for 'tis out of nature."

I could not agree with the barber in this; but I did not press my opinion upon him; it was easy to see why he should think as he did. The barber's basin was his every day companion; and the fancy of Don Quixote in con

RECENT RAMBLES.

verting it into a helmet, was too violent a perversion of fact to obtain his assent to it. At every step in Spain, the traveller is reminded of this adventure, for in place of the barber's pole, a shining brass basin is suspended at every barber's shop.

"But for my part," said the barber, “though the excellent genius of the author is displayed in the adventures of his hero, these are to be looked upon only as heads of the discourse, or prominences in a landscape, which, although more striking, are perhaps less valuable than that which intervenes,for example," continued the barber, and stopping his mule upon a slight elevation which we had attained;" look before us, or to the right, or to the left, various eminences are visible, gilded by the morning sun, and the country that lies between them, is less visible and prominent than they are; yet I make no doubt, that fine olive grounds, and rich vineyards lie concealed, and must be passed through in approaching them; and so I think, that the conversations between Don Quixote and his Squire, which lie before or behind the adventures, are as worthy of our attention as the adventures themselves ;" and in such pleasant and instructive discourse, we went on our journey, at an easy pace, passing, one by one, the places which although not absolutely identified with the knight's adventures, are yet so little removed from the scene of them, that something nearly approaching to a belief in their identity is created; and, perhaps, the slight uncertainty rather increases interest than diminishes it; and the barber did not fail to say, "here it might probably be that the adventure of the fulling mills took place, for yonder are two or three chesnut trees, and a running brook, and some rocks," as the scene is described by Cervantes; or, "it was doubtless hereabouts, that a man was discovered by the knight, riding, with something on his head that glittered like polished gold;" or, "it was without doubt near this place, that as Don Quixote and his faithful Squire jogged along as we do, the knight delivered his famous discourse upon knight-errantry.”

We had now left the wearisome plain of La Mancha, which was lost among the outposts of the Sierra Morena; and the country assumed a new, and charming aspect. The green of the northern acclivities had resisted the partial influence of the sun, and was refreshing to the eye; the air blew cooler upon the forehead; now and then hidden rills trickled by the wayside, and the chirp of little birds was here and there and everywhere. This is not a traveller's record of all he sees and hears,~else I would speak of the town of Val de Penas; for although we nowhere read in Cervantes that his hero passed through it, yet as he travelled on the high road, to the Brown Mountain, and as there is no more than one road, the traveller who follows in his footsteps must needs pass But my business is only through Val de Penas, whether he halt there or no. with Don Quixote; and where nothing can be found to illustrate his progress, I take the liberty of using my discretion.

We were almost shut in among the ridges of the Sierra Morena, and the "I hope," said the barber, "your mercy has left day was drawing to a close. some Dulcinea in your own country, upon whose charms you may be able to muse the livelong night; for I am much deceived if we shall be able to find any better shelter than a tuft of trees."

"And if such be the case," said I," I hope your bag and wine skin are well stored, the night is warm, and the sward soft and yielding, and I look forward to as much entertainment from the continuation of your story, as Don Quixote received from Sancho's, of the goats that were ferried one by one over the river Guadinia."

"It was undoubtedly as near as may be to this spot," said the barber, "that the adventure of the galley slaves is fixed by Cervantes; there seems to be a pleasant hollow on the left side of the road, so deep, that evil disposed persons passing by, will scarcely discover that it is tenanted; body of me, as Sancho used to say, but I would choose better quarters if I knew where they were to be

found; my bags are but meagrely provided, and my wine-skin is almost a skeleton; but la necesidad carece de ley."

""Tis a proverb among all nations," said I,-" you are my guide Mr. Barber, -and to return you proverb for proverb, Mas sábe el necio en su casa que el cuerdo en la agena.* And so dismounting from our mules, and leading them about three hundred yards from the road, we descended into the hollow which the barber had espied. It was a pleasant verdant spot, though without trees; and making some thongs of the esparto rush, which grew in the neighbourhood, we fastened our beasts to some rosemary bushes that covered the sides of the hollow, and seated ourselves upon the grass,-untying our bag, and taking the stopper out of the wine-skin, and after the glorious example of the Knight and his Squire, with hunger for our sauce, we crowded "dinner, afternoon luncheon, and supper into one meal,”—and although the viands were not over savoury, they marvellously solaced our stomachs. As for the wine-skin, 'twas but the shadow of its former self, its corpulency had long since departed, and the merest novice might have put it to his head without fear of suffocation.

During our meal, and as long as any thing remained to be eaten, the conversation was not very intellectual; but no sooner had the barber made an end of his repast, than he fell into his usual train of thinking.

"That Gines de Passamonte," said the barber, "was a clever rogue; I would give some pecetas, for the manuscript of his adventures, which he pawned for two hundred reals."

“"Twould doubtless be well worthy," said I, taking no notice of the strange length to which the fancy of the barber had carried him. "But this adventure of the galley slaves is not one of the happiest."

"'Tis one of the most instructive though," said the barber; "for it shows the similitude and the disagreement between the days of Cervantes and our own."

"It proves, to be sure," said I, "that there were galley slaves in those days as well as in ours."

"And, that confession was extracted by torture;" said the barber.

"And, that witchcraft was believed in," said I, "and punished by condemnation to the galleys."

"And that men were sent to the galleys for increasing population without the priest's permission," said the barber.

"It proves much," said I.

"It proves more still," said the barber; "it proves that Escrivanos, (attorneys,) were rogues in those days as well as in ours."

"How does it prove that," said I.

"Thus," said the barber; "Don Quixote offers the galley-slave twenty ducats, if these will relieve him from his misfortune, and the galley slave says, 'that is like offering money to a man dying of hunger at sea, where food cannot be bought; for if I had been a little while ago, master of the twenty ducats your worship offers me, I would have anointed the secretary's pen, and quickened my lawyer's invention with them, to so much purpose, that I should now be standing at liberty in the square of Zocodover in Toledo, and not carried like a hound to the galleys;' so that in those days, the Escrivano was as useful to the rogue who had a long purse, as he is now."

The light had now nearly faded, night had drawn her mantle round her, and the faint stars were seen through its folds; the outline of the dark sierra was only visible against the sky, and the only sound was that of the mules cropping the grass.

"Mr. Barber," said I, "I was never better disposed than I am now, to

Every man knows his own business best.

listen to a story; we have satisfied hunger, and it is too early to sleep: I left you last, in a very awkward predicament, and I long to know how you extricated yourself from it."

"I did not extricate myself," said the barber; "after the key turned in the lock, I could hear some one step lightly away; and this person I knew could be no other than my master. There I sat on the floor, hour after hour, till it grew dark; the cura took care to have a more savoury stew than usual for supper, that the scent of it might mount into the garret: I would have given half my gains for the good will of it, but nobody came near me, and I at length fell asleep upon the floor, and dreamt of ragouts and rich sauces.

"It was day-light when I awoke; and nearly at the same moment, I heard the cura's step ascending the stair.

Lazaro," said he, from the other side of the door.

66 Master," said I.

"Have you made up your mind to die of hunger ?" said Cirillo.

"I am not at all hungry," said I.

"Bien," said the cura, and I immediately heard him descend the stair.

But the stomach bitterly admonished the tongue for the lie it had told, and every hour the admonition became more severe.

It was now the hour of dinner, and my nose was again assailed by the most delicious steams. I again heard my master ascend the stair; he stopped at my door and I heard him pronounce my name.

"Master," said I.

"Listen to me, Lazaro," said he, "I'll starve thee to death, as sure as thy name is Lazaro; no one can ever hear of thee more; I'll have thee dried when thou'rt dead, and sell thy carcass to the Carthusians as a relic; but if thou wilt push the pieces of money one by one below the door, and if, when I reckon them, I find that thou hast fairly accounted to me, thou shalt dine upon the most savoury stew that ever descended into thy stomach."

The temptation was scarcely to be resisted, but I was in hopes of a better bargain, and answered nothing: the cura however saw my hesitation, and took advantage of it. I heard him leave the door, and in a few minutes he returned.

me.

"Now, Lazaro," said he, "I have brought thy dinner: here is beef, and pork, and a rich gravy, and garbanzos, and bread. I will make this agreement with thee: I will give thee of the stew in spoonfuls, underneath the door;* and for each spoonful thou receivest, thou shalt shove me one piece:" and at the same instant, I saw the spoon filled with steaming stew, pushed towards "This first spoonful thou shalt have for nothing," said Cirillo," but if thou would'st have a second, it must be paid for." The temptation was not to be resisted; one scanty spoonful after another, descended into my stomach, while an equal number of pieces descended into the cura's pocket; and so outrageous was my appetite, and so excellent the stew, that I was soon eased of the greater part of my treasure; but—hist," said the barber, suddenly interrupting his narrative, "I hear trampling of horses on the highway; till it be past, I had best be silent."

The trampling passed, but the barber continued silent. I, "please to go on;" but the barber had dropped asleep. and bye, and no doubt will resume his story.

"Mr. Barber," said

He will awake by

The doors of common rooms seldom fit so close, that a spoon could not pass underneath.

NOTES ON ROME, ALBANO, AND TIVOLI.

FROM A TRAVELLER'S JOURNAL.

WITH A SERENADE-SCENE, AFTER PINELLI.

"July, 18

"How delightful to exchange the heat, the dust, the vermin, the villainous smells," and the malaria of Rome, in July, for the pure breezes, the shady chestnut groves, and the magnificent scenery of the Alban hills The ancient Romans preferred the heights of Tivoli, and the margin of the impetuous Teverone, notwithstanding the variable weather and the humidity of the atmosphere; but the moderns, with better taste, have abandoned Tivoli, and sought the lakes and woods of the nearer Latin hills, which are now embellished with elegant villas, well-shaded walks, and cooling streams and fountains. The most inviting and fertile portion of the Alban hills is the side nearest to the plain, which extends to the sea shore. Here, also, are the pleasant little towns of Albano, Aricia, and Genzano, where the Romans pass the season of the Villeggiatura in cool and spacious apartments, and command all the comforts of a civic residence at moderate expense; while the traveller, of contemplative or solitary habits, may hire a cell, at any of the abovenamed places, in the Capuchin monasteries, or, better still, at Palazzuolo, on the Lake of Albano. Nowhere, in this district, will he find a finer situation than the latter, where the monks have made arrangements to accommodate their lodgers, whether catholics or heretics, with dinner in the refectory, for a moderate remuneration.

"The Romans call Albano the Lesser Rome; and when, on Sunday evenings, the streets, walks, and coffee-houses, are crowded with Romans of either sex, the name would be truly appropriate, did not the imposing costume of the Alban women, which ought to make the ladies of the antique capital blush for their adoption of Parisian fashions, dispel the illusion. When, indeed, will the ladies of Europe in general, and of England in particular, reject the absurdities of French fashions, ingeniously contrived to give apparent bulk and roundness to the diminutive and scanty figures of Parisian belles, but supremely disfiguring to the full and finely moulded proportions of British beauty! Commend me to a national costume, like the provincial garb of Spain and Italy; at once graceful, commodious, and picturesque; and suited, by difference of texture, and the addition of a cloak, to all seasons of the year, and every class of society.

"It is not only in costume that the women of Albano shew themselves to be a peculiar and primitive race: they are easily distinguishable from the Romans, as well as from the inhabitants of all contiguous districts, by the superior dignity of their carriage, by the fine contour and grandeur of their countenances, which possess also the true volto sciolto, of the Italian proverb. The men are less distinguished in form and feature, but they are said to possess more sincerity and goodnature than any others in the vicinity of Rome. Their costume is less elegant than that of the females, but it is not ungraceful, and is at the same time well suited to the climate and its